Overview

Overview

Located in the Khumbu region, this pyramid shaped 7161m peak dominates the skyline behind Kala Pattar (5545m). Anyone who has made the trip to Everest either as a climber or trekker will remember Pumori`s distinctive shape. Named by George Leigh Mallory, "Pumori" apparently means "Unmarried Daughter" in the Sherpa language. Used as a training peak for past Everest teams, this peak is now offered as a guided climb by many different companies, and there may be as many as 20 Pumori expeditions per climbing season.

The ascent starts at 5,300  where there is a beautiful base camp beside a small lake. This is the main source from where you will take your water. You will need to have brought containers and filters. From base camp you have the most wonderful sight of Mt. Everest you can imagine, and just above is Kalapattar. After a 3-hr walk (loaded) through easy terrain you will reach Camp 1.

Camp 1:  (Advanced base camp 5700m) From here you will face a 500m elevation difference on a 40 to 65 degree slope a 100m horizontal traverse, a steep narrow ridge exposed to wind a 5m ice wall and one tunnel climb. Pumori has many rock and mixed climbs. You will not need rock pitons but take some in case for the fixed ropes. In spring there might be more rock falling so it would be a good idea if you have good Sherpa if you're climbing in the spring season.

Camp 2: (6200m) Is located on a narrow ridge at the end of the section described before. It is exposed to the wind and far from avalanches (although people say that avalanches have reached Camp 2). The next 400m is an ice climb of 35-65 degrees, more 5m Ice walls, many crevasses, and a greater avalanche danger from big seracs hanging from the shoulder at 6500m.

Camp 3: This camp can be made at the shoulder but it is usually too windy. From here you cans see Tibet. After this it is presumed that the rest is a wide ridge that takes you to a not hidden summit but you still need rope here because of many crevasses and ice walls.

Finally at 6850m there is an enormous crevasse 200m lareg, 40m. deep, 10-20m wide. Try to walk towards the Tibet side where the crevasse ends just before a great cliff but there is greater avalanche danger. You can try the Nepal side to reach the beautiful famous Pumori cliff to cross the crevasse. After this it is not that difficult to reach the summit of Pumori at 7161.

This is the easiest and most commonly used route for this Nepal expedition. Pumori is not as easy as some of the other mountains as there are technical parts on this route as well.